Winter Footprints at Lowry Pueblo

Lowry Pueblo Ruins is located west of Pleasant View in southwest Colorado on County Road CC. It is one of the few easy to visit sites of Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. In the winter, the site is accessible but be prepared for deep snow. County Road CC is cleared of snow to the turn into the site. I parked at the beginning of the driveway and snow shoe hiked about 0.25 miles to the hilltop ruins area.

One of the several interpretive signs along the north side of the hilltop site is titled “Footprints.” It describes how the Great Sage Plain in southwest Colorado and southeast Utah was the most densely settled region of the Ancestral Pueblo world. 

We see mostly the large ruins sites, here, and at Mesa Verde, and other publicized sites, but there are many subtle sites hidden in the canyons and mesa tops in the Canyons of the Ancients area. The Hopi consider these sites to be footsteps of the ancestors. The Lowry site has views of all of the regional mountain ranges.

Lowry Pueblo is generally rectangular with doorways on the east side facing a plaza area that extends down to the Great Kiva. I noticed on the south side several lines of stones that seem to be glazed, or at least have a different color that were placed together. This southeast corner seems to clearly show a wall section that abuts the larger wall, rather than being tied into it.

The west wall doesn’t show any ground level doorways. On this side there is a line of small rooms that were entered from roof top entryways. The winds and weather systems in this region are mostly westerly; perhaps this arrangement offers protection from weather. The snow appears to really pile up on this side also.

It is possible to enter Lowry Pueblo on the east side to view the interior kiva. This kiva is famous for the painted designs that were on the interior walls. These paintings aren’t visible anymore, but there are pictures and a preserved section at the Anasazi Heritage Center near Dolores, Colorado. On the interior there are close up views of the interior stone work and passageways.

I spent about 1:30 hours on this visit on a 15 F degree sunny winter day. The mid January snow was about two feet and walking moderately difficult in most places. The entry road snow was somewhat compacted by a vehicle and was relatively easy walking.

Escalante Pueblo Hilltop Winter Views

The Escalante Pueblo is one of the few excavated and easy to view sites in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument in southwest Colorado. The site is located on the hilltop at the end of the 0.5 mile Interpretive Trail behind the Anasazi Heritage Center near Dolores, CO. In winter, the trail is cleared of snow and can be easily hiked.

Escalante Pueblo and its nearby neighbor Dominguez Pueblo were built in the 1120s by the Ancestral Pueblo people. The location is remarkable for the views over the Dolores River with the San Juan Mountains visible in the distance. It has a rectangular layout surrounding a circular kiva. The building style resembles the Far View House at Mesa Verde and the Lowry Pueblo near Pleasant View, CO.

The Escalante Pueblo overlooks the area called the Big Bend of the Dolores River. The Dolores flows south from its headwaters near Lizard Head Pass and makes a sweeping turn to the northwest, flowing toward a junction with the San Miguel River and on to a junction with the Colorado River upstream of Moab, Utah. The area that is now flooded by McPhee Reservoir is rich with now submerged archaeology sites.

The view to the east is dominated by the LaPlata Mountains, featuring Mt. Hesperus, one of the four sacred peaks of the Navajo. The grassy mesa top areas on the north side of the McPhee Reservoir have some small ruins sites that can be visited by hiking. The Anasazi Heritage Center acts as the visitor center for the Canyons of the Ancients and has excellent and creative displays of the artifacts that were recovered prior to the construction of McPhee Reservoir.


Getting to Know Canyons of the Ancient National Monument

Yellowjacket Canyon near Woods Canyon

Yellowjacket Canyon is one of the largest of the rugged Canyons of the Ancients in southwest Colorado. There is an access to the north rim along the extension of County Road 14, south of County Road U. This area is west of the community of Yellowjacket, northwest of Cortez, CO along highway 491.

From the trailhead area near the Carbon Dioxide Gas Plant  into Woods Canyon at Roads 14 and U, I continued driving south for 2.3 miles to a point where there are views along the north rim of Yellowjacket Canyon. The well maintained gravel road continues for about one mile to several carbon dioxide gas wells. I started hiking west along the canyon rim, parallel to the road.


 

Yellowjacket Canyon is oriented east and west in this area and is very deep and wide with a flat canyon bottom. There is a meandering creek along the floor. In some areas the Yellowjacket Canyon floor is still private property with farming operations. I was hiking slowly, stopping frequently to scan with binoculars for Ancestral Pueblo ruins sites.
 

After about 1:00 hour, but only about 0.6 miles I came across a rubble pile site that was about 50 feet back from the rim. Many of these sites sit on the rim and spill over the edge, but this one was more of a mesa top site. I didn’t spot any ruins sites below the rim or near the canyon floor.

This site looked like it had at least two large rubble pile structures and a large circular depression and some perimeter walls. Not much has held together above ground, but it looks like a fairly large site.

                          

I continued west for about another 0.5 miles to a view point. I turned around at the view point, but there is about another mile of mesa top out to a rocky cap that overlooks the junction of Yellowjacket Canyon and the unnamed side canyon to the north. There is a rough trail  that continues along the mesa top.

On the return hike, I followed the rough trail back east to where it connects with the end of the maintained gravel road. Before that junction I found another mesa top site, somewhat smaller than the previous one. There were at least two rubble piles at this site, both overgrown with sagebrush and trees. My return hike only took about 0:30 minutes out of total hike of 2:30 hours for about 2 miles. I hiked on a mild 46 F degree early December day.

 Two days later I returned to the same area and continued on the rough  trail to the rocky cap overlooking the point where Yellowjacket Canyon makes a bend to the southwest. I started at the end of the well maintained gravel road, and re-hiked the first 0.5 miles of ATV trail, passing the second ruins site again. At the end of the point, about 1.5 miles of hiking, a little past the rocky outcrop, there are good views down Yellowjacket Canyon.

I saw one small ruins site along the south facing canyon rim a short distance before the rocky outcrop. The rocky outcrop itself appeared to have a small shelter ruin with a small wall fragment. I spent 2:20 hours on this segment of hiking of about 3 miles. (There are several other ruins sites in this area. Use the Yellow Jacket Canyon labels.)

Little Ruin Canyon Trail in Fall

The Little Ruin Canyon Trail is located at the Visitor Center of Hovenweep National Monument along the south Utah and Colorado border. The 2 mile loop visits at least 10 Ancestral Pueblo Ruins sites, mostly perched along the canyon rims.

Little Ruins Canyon appears to be dryer and more desert like than most of the surrounding Canyons of the Ancients area. The mesa top area is mostly Sagebrush, Mormon Tea, Cliff Rose, Prickly Pear Cactus, with a few scattered Utah Juniper trees. These plants are identified with small signs on the trail segment close to the Visitor Center. The canyons only a few miles further north are much thicker Pinon Pine and Juniper forest. Most of these plants retain some green color into the fall and winter seasons.

The trail here at the Hovenweep Visitor Center provides more ruin site viewing in a short distance than most trails in the region. The nearby Sand Canyon Trail has many small sites and Chaco Canyon in northwest New Mexico has very large sites. Sun Point at Mesa Verde has many sites visible from one view point.

Following the loop trail clockwise, there is an 80 foot descent into the canyon and a climb out the other side. The canyon interior is closed except for special tours. Several of the ruins sites can be viewed from this low angle including Stronghold House, the Twin Towers and Eroded Boulder House. Climb a little higher and Point Tower, Unit Type House, and Rim Rock House are visible. The canyon bottom has thicker vegetation than the canyon rim area, with some Rabbitbrush visible. The canyon head area has some Hackberry Trees.

The upper end of the south fork of the canyon head has some of the largest and most impressive of the Hovenweep Towers. Hovenweep Castle across the canyon head is the largest and most impressive. The Square Tower down below the rim is the most mysterious and seems to have been build with slight spiral. It overlooks the spring that provided water for the overall site.
 

There are a few small structures that aren’t pointed out. From the Tower Point loop segment looking north there are some small storage structures in the shallow alcoves under the rim. In fall, these small storage areas were probably stocked with the produce of the summer season.
 

Another unnamed ruins structure is at the point where the trail begins to descend into and cross the small canyon. This unnamed site would be a major find along the wild canyons of Canyons of the Ancients but is easily ignored here. Looking east, there is a view toward Sleeping Ute Mountain. 

The Holly Trail leads from the campground 4 miles north to the Holly Ruins Group, the nearest outlying site of Hovenweep. The Little Ruins Canyon Trail takes 1 or 2 hours depending on how long you linger at each site. I hiked in mid November on a sunny 45 F degree day and there were about 10 other vehicles at the visitor center during my visit.

Woods Canyon Square Tower

There is an old road that provides an easy descent down into Woods Canyon in the Canyons of the Ancients in southwest Colorado. The access is at the corner of County Roads U and 14, west of the community of Yellowjacket, northwest of Cortez, CO along Highway 491.

There is some parking along the road across from one of the carbon dioxide plants in the area. The south leg of the trail leads to a large Ancestral Pueblo ruins site after about 0:45 minutes of hiking.

I continued on the trail past the Woods Canyon Pueblo for another 0:40 minutes until the route seemed to fizzle out in a thick sagebrush field. In the fall, the creek at the bottom of Woods Canyon had a healthy flow of water. The northwest canyon slope appeared easy to climb at this point, so I decided to walk up hill to get a better view. I didn’t realize it, but the mouth of a side canyon was only a short distance ahead.

At the hill top, I had a good view into the side canyon and noticed a square tower perched on the west side cliffs, below the rim. From the distance, I couldn’t see any other structures nearby. This location made it appear that the tower kept a watch on the side canyon entrance. The area below the tower appeared to be steep and I decided just to view the tower from the distance. I was 1:50 hours into my hike at this view point.

I turned back north along the east rim of this side canyon, expecting to see more ruins sites, but didn’t notice anything. I made my way back to the main Woods Canyon and descended back to the canyon floor trail in the vicinity of the Woods Canyon Pueblo. My total hike took 5:30 hours for seven or eight miles. It was a 60 F early November day and I carried 3 liters of water.